East of Cairo, Muqattam is a suburb known for its past limestone cuttings, as well as for being the home of three generations of the Zabbaleen–the Coptic Christians celebrated in film and books as the unofficial “garbage collectors” of greater Cairo. And now, of course, for their work in tattoos. Visit our Yank friend Maryam–artist, writer, and charmed uber-princess–at her My Marrakesh.

Photo: M. Montague
