ÃŽle Saint-Louis: Pay full price–but savor the rudeness.

Welcome back, Monsieur Hool. As before, three cats or two waitresses in room. Remember. You must choose. This is Hôtel du Jeu de Paume, the non-oath version. Erected in the 17th century, it once housed a tennis court built by Louis XIII, king from 1610 to 1643. Beams from the early 1600s cross the ceilings. An interior garden. The walls: old books, newer original art.

Neither Left or Right bank. Save for your 6th trip to Paris. The longstanding and competent staff takes a “working” dim view of both Americans and the English. They are wonderfully rude, Paris smart, and Yankee-style industrious. A haughty Labrador even lives here full-time. Be late to breakfast at your peril. Hull McGuire’s hands-down favorite since 1996.

Brits never stay here twice. Too French. The staff does not just smile when it is says no; it laughs.

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